Armand Charlet
Armand Charlet, known for his talents as a glacier climber, is an outstanding rock climber. Born in Argentière on February 9, 1900, he is considered the greatest guide of his generation, with more than three thousand ascents.
The Aiguilles Rouges, just above his home, is a fantastic training ground, where he often trains, with his brother Georges, also an outstanding guide. Armand's prodigious speed of execution, his sense of the route and his perfect knowledge of the terrain enabled him to win most of his great firsts in a single day.
He will do some of his biggest races outside of his professional activity, often with his friend Camille Devouassoux. Thus, in 1928, they embarked on a race that was a few steps ahead of mountaineering at the time: the Verte via the Nant Blanc side of the Aiguille Sans Nom. Very long, because it starts under the Col des Drus, it imposes very high glacial and rocky difficulties, and Armand will admit to having reached his limits there. Camille "Pica" often told the famous anecdote where Armand climbs on his head, crampons on his feet, to get out of trouble.
The great Argentière guide climbs the routes of the Aiguille Verte a hundred times, by no less than 14 routes, including 7 new ones. Apart from this summit, among his greatest successes, there is also the conquest and the crossing of the Aiguilles du Diable.
The second part of Armand Charlet's career will be decisive for the guiding profession. He is one of the first to stress the need for a rational, unique formation for all guides. He has the legitimacy to do so, and when the national guide diploma was created in 1948, he had already joined the National School of Skiing and Mountaineering (ENSA). Professor-master in charge of training guides, he will remain at the helm of teaching for many years. He will leave his strong mark on the profession. At the same time, he devoted himself to the life of the valley, took care of the maintenance of the refuges and was a member of the cable car commission.
He died on November 28, 1975 in Argentière, aged 75.
Authority in the world of mountaineering, as much as in his valley, demanding with him as with others, Armand Charlet is the undisputed leader and beacon of his generation. Busk Douglas faithfully transcribes the memories of the great guide of Argentière in his book: "Armand Charlet, Portrait of a guide".
Known For | Acting |
---|---|
Most Rating | 0.151 |
Birthday | 1900-02-09 |
Place of Birth | Argentière, France |
Also Known As |
1963
Refuges
10/1
Watch Now
Refuges
2000
Quand Les Alpinistes Font Leur Cinéma
10/1
Many mountaineers as part of their activity have used cameras and films to allow us to participate through images in their adventures and their emotio...
Watch Now
Quand Les Alpinistes Font Leur Cinéma
1953
Des Hommes Et Des Montagnes
10/1
History, advice and demonstrations of mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif by the renowned guides of the National School of Ski and Mountaineering...
Watch Now
Des Hommes Et Des Montagnes
1943
A l'Assaut Des Aiguilles Du Diable
10/1
Marcel Ichac accompanied the mountaineer Armand Charlet, in 1943, in the repetition of the first crossing of the Aiguilles du Diable that the guide of...
Watch Now
A l'Assaut Des Aiguilles Du Diable
1924
L'Ascension Des Aiguilles Ravanel Et Mummery
10/1
"The ascent of the Aiguilles Ravanel and Mummery", climbed by young guides in cycling pants: The brothers Armand Charlet and Georges Charlet, Arthur R...
Watch Now
L'Ascension Des Aiguilles Ravanel Et Mummery
1947
Jean des Bossons
10/1
Jean des Bossons is a documentary-fiction which recounts the activities of a high mountain guide in 1947. Around Chamonix Mont-Blanc, the guide Jean d...
Watch Now
Jean des Bossons
1959
John Gunther's High Road
10/1
John Gunther, a great traveler in many parts of the globe, presented on the American ABC channel the documentary program "John Gunther's High Road" fr...
Watch Now